blog

We All Start Somewhere: Valentine’s Day + The First Girl I Ever Cooked For

It was a typically cold February day, I was a junior in college, and it was the first time I was actually spending Valentine’s Day with someone I cared about.  Michelle was beautiful; tall, slender, long wavy hair and a smile that lit up the room, and we ended up dating for a couple years and moved in together, though it didn’t take long, living under the same room to realize my goals and dreams were different from her’s.

“How about we celebrate when you get home, after class tonight,” I suggested.

“Sounds great baby,” she answered, smiling, “What do you have in mind?”

“It’s a secret!” I grinned.  “Now get on with your day, so I can get on with this “secret”.   I bantered back, trying to figure out how to make this night magical, and what this secret might be.  She was out the door and I was nervous, looking at my clock realizing I only had a few hours to impress my beautiful Valentine, and I had nothing.  Then it came to me….Dinner! My nervousness, sweating, and tension turned into, “That’s it! I’ll impress her with an awesome dinner!  So what if I’ve never done this before,” I thought to myself, psyching myself up while wiping the sweat from my chin.  “I can do this!”

Michelle out of sight, I scurried out the back door and straight for my car.  I bustled into the grocery store lot and screeched into a parking spot, where all around, were men, like myself walking back to their cars with hands full of flowers, cards, chocolates, and those of us who were cooking, had cooking ingredients as well.  My first stop was the international aisle where I scooped up a box of penne.  I then picked up some salad dressing, parmesan cheese, and wandered helplessly over to the produce section where I needed tomatoes(fortunately several were beautifully red), a red onion, garlic, baby spinach, an assortment of berries,  a few handfuls of walnuts and a number of other essentials to round out the meal.  I stopped by the meat counter to get some beef for my tartare, and it appeared all of the good cuts were taken – I settled for a fatty handful of tenderloin medallions.  I needed shrimp for my pasta, so I wandered over to the seafood market and snatched a bag of large, precooked cocktail shrimp(something I would never do at this point in my career), and I was reminded of Michelle’s inherent, ocean brined love affair with seafood, having grown up on the Florida Panhandle. I then hustled over to the checkout line with some Roses, but not before the adorable lady in the floral department lectured me on selecting flowers, and how to keep them alive, things I knew from my junior year of high school when I spent the summer gardening, thus learning more than I ever thought imaginable about flowers, plants, shrubs and weeds.  Nevertheless, I thanked her for her infinite wisdom, checked out and hurried home.

The clock was ticking and it was time to get real in the kitchen, to make it happen.  Car parked, my arms weighed down by ridiculous amounts of bags filled with props and groceries which were cutting off the circulation in my wrists by the time I made it to the kitchen counter.  Just as carefully as I was in selecting those tomatoes, I retrieved the contents from the bags, one ingredient at a time, as if I were handling precious jewels.  I located the cutting board, and a knife, and it was time to get to work.

Adrenaline was running through my veins.  I looked at all of my ingredients knowing I had more than I would know what to do with, but at the time I couldn’t take a chance, but please, keep in mind, that I was a college kid, with no formal culinary training, but a deep desire and love affair with food….and an ego the size of Mt. Everest.  This was my chance to show her what I was made of.  I loved cooking and had cooked for myself and my buddies numerous times, but this was different.  I was cooking for a date, which was akin to bringing a girl home to meet my parents… She had to be worth it and Michelle definitely was.  The clock was still ticking, seemingly fasten than before, and I was nowhere near finished, with just over an hour and a half until she were to return.  And so, pen to paper, I began sketching out my menu as follows:

First Course: Spinach Salad with Roma tomatoes, onions, walnuts and a store bought bleu cheese vinaigrette.

Second:  Beef Tartare with Lemon-Dijon Aioli

Main: Shrimp Alfredo with Penne Pasta and roasted red peppers

Dessert:  Gran Marnier macerated berries.

Cocktail:  Kir Royale

Where to start?  In the mixing bowls went the berries, a spoonful of sugar and a generous dash of  Gran Marnier…to ensure good mood. Into the fridge it went.  Dessert, done! A corroded, wooden bowl, passed down from my grandmother to my Mom, to me- was the perfect vessel for a salad of fresh baby spinach, chopped vine-ripened tomatoes, and rich, crunchy walnuts.  A great salad and story too!  Covered with plastic wrap, bottled bleu cheese vinaigrette on top (even early on I knew mis-en-place!), shifting a few things around, I pushed the bowl gently into the refrigerator, tilting it ever so slightly, nestling it between a box of wine and stale beer, which sadly dominated this college student’s fridge.  Prep work, done!

Now 5:30, I had one hour, and hadn’t even begun to address the romantic part of this evening – this was surely make tonight unforgettable.  I placed the circular dining room table that adequately sat two people, in the living room, and cleared out the rest.  I found some appropriately colored red linens to hide stains that accumulated on the table over the course of our college careers, dressed the table with silverware, and placed a small vase of flowers and a couple of dimly lit sconces to accent our romantic occasion.  Five dozen roses began taking their places throughout the room, which I aligned in circular patterns, placing tea lights in-between each, lighting them, so that when she arrived the room would be gloriously illuminated.  I hustled lighting the candles, and my once excited sweating turned back into nervousness as I scurried, getting everything into place. I still had to make the tartare and cook the entree portion of the meal and cue the music that we would be listening to that evening, which was a list of meaningful songs that defined our time together.

I heated some water, salted it and emptied a box of penne into the rolling boil.  I then chopped up some garlic and onion – sweated them in some butter with thyme and oregano and when the contents of the pan were translucent and the aroma otherworldly I eyeballed a tablespoon of flour, made a roux, stirred some milk into it and finished it with parmesan cheese.  It looked beautiful.  I bought pre-cooked jumbo cocktail shrimp that needed a mere warming and they would be ready to go(something I would never do this day and age).  Meanwhile, I began working on the Beef tartare, by mincing the tenderloin and tossing it with some left over chopped onion, garlic, herbs, and then delicately scooped some mayo, Dijon mustard, and squeezed some lemon juice, ensuring no seeds made their way into the mixture.  I finally added an egg yolk, tossed the mixture, molded it, cylindrically and symmetrically on the plate, finished it with some chopped capers, and freshly grated parmesan cheese and relocated the plate to the fridge, until it was time for dinner.  The apartment door swung open at the very instant the refrigerator door sealed shut.

This was single handedly the worst meal I ever made. By the end of the night we were stumbling drunk because the food was so unpalatable aside from a passable salad, and a pretty decent beef tartare.  But the high notes were overshadowed by the fact that I used Milk for the pasta sauce which had expired a month prior, and that sour, rotten smell of milk, to this day has me emotionally distraught.   As a result, we didn’t eat more than two bites, well, aside from the dessert, which was soaking in booze – that couldn’t have helped our lack of sobriety.

Nevertheless, we enjoyed ourselves, talked about our lives together, while drinking the Kir Royales, dancing to the music that went on to be the soundtrack of our relationship, as the candles in the room slowly melted their way into the carpet, creating flames, throughout the apartment.  The smoke alarm went off, we doused the carpet in water, and what could have been a serious calamity, was narrowly avoided, though wax had now embedded itself into various locations throughout the room.   I thought she was going to kill me.  The fire department came and left, patting me on the back, acknowledging my embarrassment, as did her deposit for the apartment, in what turned out to be an unforgettable night.

So, my first Valentine’s Day with a girlfriend, or atleast one I truly cared for was defined by a horrific meal and followed with a fire that could’ve burned the building down.   My intentions were good, which was my salvation, and it’s a night I can look back on and laugh, now.   Especially seeing as, I spent the remainder of the night holding her hair back as she vehemently vomited into the toilet, a byproduct of her intoxication.  What a night.  I’m pretty sure she didn’t remember much of that night, if anything.  Trust me, this is a good thing.

That night taught me this:

Lesson #1: Never use pre-cooked shrimp in a warm dish.  Precooked shrimp are called “Cocktail Shrimp”.  Dip them in cocktail sauce, remoulade, or squeeze some lemon over them – just don’t reheat them.

Lesson #2: Before use, always check the expiration date on dairy products.  I REPEAT, CHECK THE EXPIRATION DATE.  If you are more than a few days past the expiration date, get rid of it!

Lesson #3: Avoid putting burning plastic directly on carpet.  It will be only a matter of time before something bad happens.

Lesson # 4: Stop feeding your date booze, if she didn’t like what you fixed her, especially if she is in college.  College girls have notoriously low tolerances for alcohol.

So, I suppose we have to start somewhere, and for me I didn’t have anywhere to go but up, and that I did.  I continued watching my cooking shows, continued cooking in my home kitchen, and continued to read and learn what I could, since I rarely spent any time working on homework.   So here I am 8 or 9 years later, and life has moved on, I have cooked for tons of girls, most of whom have been incredibly impressed, and find myself now, getting pleasure out of making people happy through food.  I have also become a believer in the notion that every story has a moral, which is the 5th lesson that night taught me, though it took me five years or more to come to this conclusion.  And it is this:

Lesson #5: Ignore the lessons above – find out for yourself, and it will all work out.  If it doesn’t, now that you have bought this book, you can blame it on me – just don’t give her my email address.

So, as I look back at my life, and my life in food, and specifically that Valentine’s Day, let’s just say, that things ended, well, special, and memorable – how can you not look back and laugh at a flaming carpet, a soured alfredo sauce and rubbery shrimp.  She was beautiful, I was embarrassed, and she blacked out, barely remembering any of it.  Sounds like a win to me.

Posted in Blog | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

A Christmas Story

My hands tremble in my dark, cold office, as my soul smiles, nostalgia takes hold of me, and my mind wanders back into my adolescent years and of the one Christmas that I will carry  with me forever.

Nineteen ninety five was the fourth Christmas in a row that my mother was bald –  it wasn’t by choice. We were what from the outside appeared to be the idyllic American family, though behind the scenes, like any other family we were, to an extent, dysfunctional, having our own set of problems. My parents worked so hard to keep our family happy and together but with four kids, two full time jobs, and private school tuitions, stress slowly took a strain on their relationship. So, during the  same holiday season, marital problems were a lingering fog, though they were doing their best to keep things together for us, for the kids, in what none of us knew at the time, but all but expected to be my Mom’s last Christmas.

After the Christmas Eve service at the beautiful St. Phillip’s Cathedral, my dad weaved through the Christmas lights of Atlanta as the sun began escaping into the woods, and the dark cold air began to resonate with excitement and the energy of Christmas. We returned home to our already-dressed table, decorated in coastal paraphernalia – fishing nets, oversized clam shells, bowls inked with crustaceans, and salt and pepper shakers resembling conchs.  Our annual Christmas Eve dinner, had arrived, and it was a tradition stemming from my mother’s side of the family who vacationed in Maine and Nantucket every year.  This meal, is one I cherish above all other, is something I always anticipate and comparable to my anxiety stricken nieces the night before Christmas, as they await Santa Claus’ descent of the fireplace.

Before sitting down at the table, my parents took us into the living room where a surprise was in waiting. The fireplace was burning embers from earlier in the day with which my brother and I struggled bringing back to life. My father guided us with his paternal wisdom, and flames appeared, beginning to wave back and forth, almost at us. The ledge overhead was hung with stockings, manger scenes, and candles whose blazes were pale in comparison to the erratic flames below.

My frail mother began speaking of her love for us – making allusions that this would probably be her last Christmas, how much her family meant, and how having each other and a loving family is paramount, a blessing, and truly special.   She had been fighting for years. Surgery after surgery debilitated her strength, though never her spirit. She was always proud, and strong, and ceaseless, but options were running out and we all knew that, but coming to terms with that is undoubtedly harder.  One last hope for the success of an experimental laser surgery had failed, leaving the cancer with free reign over her body, since it had learned to combat the radiation and chemotherapy, thus eliminating options. Emotions were always tense and threshold-like, always readying me for the worst. She didn’t say the word cancer that Christmas, and neither did my dad, and instead of crying amongst each other, a ritual that had become all too familiar for all of us, she walked into the dining room, and returned with a camcorder.   The red light on the front indicated that it was recording, and this was our big Christmas present in 1995 – a camcorder. Though unsaid, it was so that we could remember that last Christmas with my mom – so that her voice, gestures, smile and most importantly her spirit, would live on in the cellars and deep recesses of our minds, and subconscious’.

Looking back at my life and my experiences, I am all but convinced that those are things that someone never forgets about their mother, no matter how far away, or how long away they have been gone. That voice, that touch, that spirit though at times cavernous and distant is always in the inner dwellings of a child, and is inseparable. We joyously sat around the table passing the camcorder while cracking lobster claws, laughing, and enjoying each other. We were enjoying each other and understood that we had created a familial bond of love and compassion, and though we had been through so much, we would in the end, know what was really important and what really mattered.  As kids, we grew up too fast and were faced with many of the harsh realities of life at a young age, though on the eve of Christmas in 1995, none of that mattered, and we spent this holiday season cherishing whatever remaining time we had together. That night we read Christmas books, held, hugged and loved each other. My mother passed away four months later. While expected, none of us were ready for it. To this day, Christmas Eve will always be synonymous with my mother, and of course, the meal I most look forward to every year – a Lobster Dinner.

Posted in Blog | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

The Breakdown: A Short Story

The incessant pounding of rain comes down on the world around me as I try to unify my thoughts…. My thoughts are cluttered, and the weather isn’t helping. Not in the least, so the blog I have for today is a short story I wrote a while back. Just so you know, it is NOT autobiographical, and is entirely a work of FICTION. No character described actually exists. The narrative is simply a loose interpretation of how easily our lives can spiral out of control. It is called “The Breakdown”, and it’s tone mirrors this dreary fall day.
I hope you enjoy.

THE BREAKDOWN

“Goddamnit,” he muttered. Debris flooded through the ceiling tile and onto table 20, the worst table in the restaurant. Every restaurant has a worst table, and Pat and Linda Johnson were sitting there tonight, and celebrating their wedding anniversary. Not to mention he is the president of the chamber of commerce. They needed to make him happy.
“Why does this shit have to happen tonight, to this table” he cursed under his breath making his way through the crowd over to their table, and continued audibly this time, “Folks I am so terribly sorry – Mrs. Johnson, let me have your hand,” he said, helping her out of her seat. The table was covered in dust, and detritus – the pounding of water against the seventy-five year old roof had taken its toll. He escorted them to a dimly lit, corner table that was supposed to be seated within minutes – the company accountant and his wife were bringing in their daughter and son-in-law. He was a pain in the ass anyway, he could wait. Besides, he eats for free.
“Why do we pay $6500 dollars a month in rent and they won’t fix this fucking building, huh Danielle,” Sammy the Maître’ D screamed across the bar, “It doesn’t make any Goddamn sense. Not a bit of sense – get me another glass of cabernet and a glass of chard,” he demanded trying to amend the situation. He wasn’t usually like this. Something was more wrong than usual. The Johnsons were first time diners, and it wasn’t the impression he wanted to make. Curse words stuck in his mind, and spun like a rolodex out of control.
Transforming into the personae he was paid to be was easy. This, he thought as he approached their table with a fresh glass of wine in each hand. He placed them adjacent to the water glasses that sat directly in front of the butter knives. The glasses had yet to be filled. “I am so terribly sorry – just so you know, everything you have tonight is on us, my most sincere apologies and please don’t hesitate to let me know if there is anything you might need. I am here for you.”
Sammy had a way of smoothing things over; he was a bullshit artist, and a master of his trade. Dressed in a two piece pinstripe suit that lay snug against his chest he walked towards the kitchen attempting to get things under control. A full restaurant saw the embarrassing sequence of events, and the dishwasher was now out in the dining room cleaning up, trying to hide the evidence. Mrs. Johnson had bits of rubbish nested in her graying hair, her charcoal shawl was specked with white, and Mr. Johnson’s navy blue blazer was now pinstriped and damp.
“Table 20 is now 41 – they moved – damn ceiling tile fell down right on top of them – right fucking on top of them. They are VIP – make sure it all comes out good – can you get me a tartare app on the fly – I wanna get something in front of them. “
“Actually I got one right here. Take this one – Hector I need one more Tartare to sell – now,” the chef uttered. He was nearly in the weeds.
“Thanks chef, I owe you one.”
He grabbed the plate and headed back over to the Johnsons who were now laughing at the situation. Their wine was void of debris, their table clean, and their plates were shiny.
“Folks I have our signature trio of tartares – beef , bison and venison. I hope you will enjoy,” he smiled finding a place in the middle of the table that would be accessible for both of them.
“This looks fantastic. Thank you so much, that is very kind of you…… Oh, and just so you know, I have a great roof guy – he would probably come out here tonight if you really needed him,” Mr. Johnson said teasing, knowing the torrential rain didn’t seem to be going anywhere. There was now a bucket of water on table 20 nearly full,catching the water that dripped from overhead.
“Very funny sir – you have a better sense of humor than I do. I would still be cursing right now if I were you.”
“Actually it is my brother, and he does great work. I will give you a card before we leave, I think I have one buried in this purse of mine.” This, Mrs. Johnson chimed in as Sammy leaned over, brushing specks of white from her husband’s shoulder.
“I might have to take you up on that offer. Y’all enjoy the rest of your evening, and I will check back in a bit. Just so you know, the sauce drizzled over the bison has a bit of heat and tends to sneak up on some people – so be careful!”
Sammy made his way towards the hostess stand, knowing he had fixed that situation, but there was now a restless crowd. They were assembled around the podium like protesters. Every table was full, and the hostess was nowhere to be found. She was probably on a smoke break at 7:30 on a Friday night. Sounds about right. The accountant Mr. Gibbs was loud, excessively annoying and trying to ensure that Sammy knew he was not only there, but was also waiting. He made every attempt to divert the situation.
“Sammy, come on baby – we have been waiting for fifteen minutes. Whatcha got for me,” Gibbs yelled across the crowd of people.
“I am working on it sir – It won’t be too much longer. Mrs. Gibbs you look beautiful tonight. Y’all go grab a couple of martinis while you wait for your daughter to arrive and we should have something ready for you shortly,” he said, hoping to ease the situation. Sammy then walked away, and into the office. There were too many people out there, and each needed something. A drink. An ashtray, or maybe a cigar cutter. They tug at his shirt trying to steal his attention. Sammy, could you talk to my four top, one of their steaks was overcooked, and they are being a real dick about it. Sammy, is my table ready? Just wanted to say hi. Hi. Is that a new suit, it fits you so well. Mom and Dad why are you here tonight, I told you we were full and there aren’t any cancellations. The roof caved in on a busy night. Goddamnit. Why tonight?
The restaurant one night at a time was destroying his life. He was only 29. He reached for a paper bag, then breathed into it– inflating and deflating it rhythmically. He reached for his pouch of pills, grabbing two, and a bottle of water – medicine always seemed to help. There was a restaurant out there; a kitchen that was buried, waiters were knee deep in the weeds, and a bar piled with drunks. Concurrently, food piled in the kitchen and soon there would be nowhere to put it, and no one to deliver to the appropriate table. The food runner only had 2 hands. On the computer he pulled up the cameras that documented nearly everything going on in the restaurant…. Everything that was going on outside the door he was too petrified to open. The cameras confirmed what he thought. This place was going down in flames. His hands were shaking, and the beat of his heart couldn’t keep pace with the anxiety presiding over him.
“I need a drink – a fucking drink,” he said over and over, reaching for the bottle of scotch hiding in the office. It was Macallan 12 year. Pulling the top off, he tilted his head back and swallowed. One, two, three. Therapeutic was the burn of alcohol, so he took one more generous sip, emptying the bottle, and fell into his chair knowing he had to face the crowd outside before things worsened. The agonizing pound of his heart dissipated over the next couple minutes, and his hands ceased to shake. The medicine had done its trick. Before heading back into the restaurant Sammy swung the safe door open and pulled out a ziplock bag, emptied enough powder to get him through the night, lined it up, and leaned towards it…….

“Sammy, Sammy – are you in there, open the goddamn door.”
It was loud and the clatter of people made it hard to distinguish whose voice it was. Sammy, laying in the same chair as before, looked at his watch, which now read 10:15PM – three hours from when he originally escaped to the office. His white shirt was tinted red and a strip of dried blood had crusted and ran the length of his face and down to his shirt collar. His shirt was soaked with perspiration as he sat, choosing to ignore the voices outside. The ziplock bag had fallen to the ground and emptied itself onto the floor of the office. It was smeared into the carpet creating a white cloud in the contrasting, dark checkered carpet. Moments later the door swung open, and a crowd of coworkers peered in.
“What the fuck is going on – get out of here,” he pleaded.
Bob McFadden entered, pushed the crowd away and closed the door behind him. He had a right to be here – he was the owner, and had been drinking at the bar when the chef alerted him of Sammy’s absence. McFadden was a large man with a demanding presence. He looked at Sammy for a couple of moments trying to gather the right words.
“Sammy,” he paused, “What is going on?”
“Bobby, I don’t really know – I don’t. I… I….I broke – I couldn’t handle it,” he responded, glossy eyed and sedated.
Mcfadden kicked the empty plastic bag towards the trash can, shaking his head, and paused. For longer this time.
“Look at you…. Let’s get you out of here. Chef can close up tonight. I will give him some keys and we can do the money later,” the boss insisted with visible disappointment.
“Did the Johnson’s leave happy,” Sammy questioned, diverting the attention.
“They did, they actually said you were great.”

Sammy actually was great… always. Atleast from a distance. From someone looking in from the outside…. someone from the audience. He is a thespian. The curtains eventually draw, and Sammy exits stage left, returning to the green room, He will hang his costume in the wardrobe and wash his face of makeup. Beneath it all is a tormented soul – a soul masked by an award winning performance. A performance that is put on every night. Alcohol and drugs had taken hold of him. They had gripped his soul and wouldn’t let go. The Johnsons would never know this. Neither would the Gibbs, or most of his coworkers. Guests would come in, and enjoy great food in one of Atlanta’s prized settings. That is what they were supposed to do. Their enjoyment was fundamentally dissociated from the performance put on by Sammy and the others that make this play go on. They are all actors. They all go home to their own lives of dysfunction. Lives of crying babies, their nearly foreclosed homes, and their love affair ruined lives. One of the cooks at the end of the night returns to the Fulton County jail where he is serving the last six months of a four year prison sentence. No one would have ever guessed. Here, it is their job, and they are paid to leave it all behind. At some point it all begins to catch up with you – there is nowhere else to run, no one else to turn to, and no one else to confide in.
McFadden walks Sammy out the back door where waiters and cooks gossip. They amble to his car and McFadden, from the remote on his key unlocks the car. They get in. A few words exchange before exhaust begins to pump from the back of the car, mingling with the humid air. The fogged windows hide the vehicle’s occupants as they drive out of view, leaving the busy restaurant in order to tend to more important things, the things that really matter. Atleast the Johnsons enjoyed the rest of their meal. Speaking of that.
“Did you get a business card from Mrs. Johnson before they left…. She was saying that her brother does roofing and we could maybe use his help since the damn landlord can’t seem to get it right” Sammy chimed in beginning to come out of sedation.
“I sure did – I was gonna give him a call in the AM, and I figured by the time you get back, we will have it all fixed up.”
“Back from where,” Sammy questioned.
“Let’s get you some help – I think you could use some,” Sammy’s boss suggested in the most earnest of tones.
They sat for a couple of moments in silence. Then Mcfadden turned the radio on so that it was barely audible. Sammy knew not to fight it.
“Okay, I can do that, let me get some rest tonight and we can talk about it tomorrow. Will you promise me one thing though,” he asked.
“Anything in the world,” Mcfadden insisted anticipating a serious request
“Let’s invite the Johnson’s back the night after the roof is fixed. I think they earned it tonight.”
“It’s a deal. I just hope it rains, they sit at table 20, and we don’t end up taking care of their tab again.”
Mcfadden patted Sammy on the back, rubbed his shoulders and smiled over at him. He was the father Sammy never had. Maybe that is what it all came back to. Sammy would have plenty of time in the coming weeks to think about that and the other plagues of his adult life. His time to start thinking started now, on his ride through the city back to his lonesome three bedroom house on a night he would never forget. Maybe it’s a good thing the tile over table 20 came crashing down. This he thought, and smiled, thinking about the debris that was probably still sitting loosely in the gray curly hair of Pat Johnson.

Posted in Blog | Leave a comment

That Time of Year …..

Everyday throughout the opening month of my sandwich bistro, 3WAY CAFÉ I made three soups, daily.  We opened in May, not the most conducive month, or time of year to move a lot of soup. Sadly, there would be days when I literally wouldn’t sell any.  The first week I even ran two cold soups: Canteloupe Bisque with Mint, and Hawaiian Black Sea Salt, as well as a Guajillo Pepper Gazpacho – I sold a cup or two of each over the course of a sixty person lunch. Thankfully, after that first month we cut it down to a “Soup of the Day”, atleast during the blazing hot summer months, and on average still only served a handful of cups a day.

Fortunately we have some good regulars, and the local community and media seemed to be responding well to the new sandwich bistro downtown. A local artist in the nearby arcade comes by atleast twice a week, orders a bowl of soup and enjoys lunch by herself, reading the newspaper while Frank Sinatra whistles over head. My face brightens when an order for soup comes in, or when a familiar face asks what soup we are serving that day.  My eyes wander over to a smiling Ron (our cook), and we both acknowledge that they are here for my soup, made by my recipes.   Almost daily, somewhere around halfway through lunch the batch of soup is almost always half gone, and in the early days, it wasn’t on account of our customers. My business partner Daryl, and his girlfriend Kat(our front of the house manager) are two of the biggest soup fanatics I know, I on the other hand, ironically, don’t really even like soup. Sure, I like them as much as the next guy, but I do really enjoy the process of making soups because of my enjoyment in layering and building flavors, and seeing ingredients transform, twist and over time shape their way into something special, and at times transcendent.  Like every other aspect of cooking the art of saucier is merely understanding and recognizing your ingredients, how they work with each other, how the flavor profile changes upon cooking it, and determining the right amount in relation to every other ingredient you have.

Nevertheless, Daryl and Kat give my soups unwavering praise and I always have them try a couple spoonfuls before we open to ensure that today’s batch is to their liking. Our cook Ron and our delivery driver Barrett have joined their assault in putting a hit on my soup. Just last week the four combined ate nearly all of my soup before 1 PM – it was a Roasted Tomato Bisque that we were running as a special with a “souped-up” grilled Cheese – we sold a near record 15 cups of soup, which sounds silly, though a third of these came after the lunch rush.  All of the sudden we only had two cups left for five customers.  In 5 minutes I scrambled, hovering over the six-burner range, stretching the two cups into five with some cream, a little chicken stock and some corn starch. I made the prep cook puree some roasted tomatoes, and by the time I was done making the soup nearly every four-letter word escaped my mumbling breathe.  Ron, who was putting the final touches on a few salads for a to-go order could barely keep from breaking into hysterical laughter. Daryl, the biggest soup culprit of them all was reclusive in the back office knowing my head was about to explode. I continuously murmured, “can’t y’all just wait until fucking lunch is over and then you can have all the damn soup you want!” Ironically, I was frustrated at the fact that we actually sold soup, or moreover at the fact that had my employees not raided the crock pot, that was at one point full, there would have been no issue.  Regardless, I am humbled and honored that certain people rave over my creations – some merely eat it, some call asking when we will be running a certain soup, which I always respond with, “tomorrow!”, and others approach me in the kitchen window with wide eyed grins, asking for the recipe, which I am almost always happy to share.

In those first couple of months, it couldn’t have been more frustrating to see batch after batch of soup go to waste, not to mention the countless man hours it took to create these soups, though it did however give me a chance to refine my recipes, and thankfully Kat kept track of how many different soups were made in those first months, and the number is somewhere in the thirties. Many of those recipes are here on the website, and will be in my forthcoming cookbook – some are cold, most are hot. Most aren’t very difficult to master and they are pretty tasty. Well, that is atleast what Daryl tells me – that way he can eat all of my soup, butter me up, and I can’t get mad when we run out.

So, back to that afternoon, Daryl finally came out of hiding, in much the same way a little puppy does after having chewed a hole in the carpet, and as Ron and I were cleaning up the kitchen, joking about my rare explosion over the soup incident I looked at Daryl. He then looked at me, then his eyes shot over to Ron, who turned away, cracking the slightest of smiles, “Damn, Daryl, so nice of you to come back NOW…Now that he’s done screamin’ and cursin!”  Daryl, with a half grin began to explain, “Chris makes great soups, Ron – you don’t think this episode is going to stop us do you? Hell, he just better start making bigger batches.”  We all broke out into laughter, as the sun began to slide through the windows and into the kitchen which was almost clean from one of our busiest lunches.  We were tired, and our clothes were stained from the normal wear and tear of the lunch rush.  The restaurant emptied out and the only noise in the restaurant was Sinatra’s voice, the vent over the hood, and the sizzle of some mirepoix from my stock pot – the makings of a fresh, bigger batch of soup for the following day.

Posted in Blog | 1 Comment

Dishwasher: The Unwanted Job

A Story about the most overlooked and under-appreciated employee in any restaurant.

He clocks in, throws an apron over his neck and around his waist, fastening it close to his body, and is working harder than anyone else in this restaurant. The dish area is piled high from an afternoon’s worth of prep done by the opening cooks who hustled trying to get the kitchen caught up for dinner service after a busy weekend. Busy, receiving orders all morning the opening cooks were behind within moments of arriving. That’s how it always is on Mondays. Dirtied cutting boards, sauce slopped Robot Coups and bacon greased baking sheets were piled high in front of Margaro’s station, the Dish Pit. This was all to be done before anyone actually sat down to eat in this restaurant. He clocked in at 4PM and knew what to expect – it was a Monday after a busy weekend – this was his work, and he did it with fortitude and grace, never undermining the importance of his job. While yes, the dishwasher’s job isn’t one requiring high skill, it does require patience and strength to press on when dirty dish after dirty dish comes rolling in from the kitchen, dining room and bar. He scrapes, sprays and runs a load through the machine, then again – ensuring it’s cleanliness then stows it appropriately. Finally caught up from the earlier kitchen mess, Margaro sprays down the final sauce pot which was used for Beef Stock and rubs it feverishly with steel wool, placing it upside down in the machine, then presses the start button and walks away. He wipes his dirty hands on the bar towel that hangs from his waist, makes his way to the back of the building and pulls a cigarette from the half smoked pack in his back pocket. In the kitchen, Margaro is in his own world – communicating efficiently and infrequently – only when necessary and only when it involves work. On break though, he enjoys a single cigarette with the other kitchen guys before the chaos of dinner service has begun – it was a Monday though, and there were only 45 reservations in the books, meaning that he would most likely get the opportunity to sneak one more smoke in before the night was over. For Margaro it wasn’t an addiction, but rather a chance to step outside of the hot, steam packed kitchen whose temperature on a good night hovered around 85 degrees.
The night went smooth – plates from waiters were brought into the kitchen and scraped of any remaining food before being stacked appropriately near the dish area, where Margaro would seize them once a considerable pile had accumulated. The same was done with a steaming hot trough of silverware. Waiters tossed forks and knives, splashing the soap spiked water onto the already damp floor below. Cooks stepped around Margaro, tossing their final scorching hot sauté pans into the adjacent, half full sinks. By the time he would get around to cleaning them, the skillets would have lost all of their heat to the water in which they were bathing. “Caliente, Caliente guey,” echoes through the kitchen throughout the night indicating that yes, the pans are extremely hot. This is the last time Margaro would hear those words tonight. It was done. After 57 covers, and an early last call, the night was over.

Mexican mariachi music sways from the kitchen signifying the upbeat mood of the staff that is nearly finished closing up. Foods are wrapped and placed in the refrigerators, as certain sauces and side dishes are placed into smaller, more economical pans, The smaller pans are wrapped tightly as well, then dated, signifying when the contents inside should be used. The final dishes come over from the kitchen and are stuffed with dirty knives. The last stack of clean plates is placed above the expo window denoting their readiness for use the following day. After a couple more loads, Margaro cleans his machine, then mops the floor – attempting to free the kitchen tile of the grime that has accumulated since the restaurant opened years ago. Confident no more dishes are lurking, the dishwasher is turned off, as is the music, and is then followed by the light. Into the computer Margaro punches his four digit number for the second time today, indicating his work was done for the day. He tosses his filthy apron into the linen hamper, collects his belongings and wanders out to the front of the house, the part of the restaurant where he doesn’t really belong. The bar and the rest of the kitchen staff sip over a beer at the bar as he walks out the back door, barely able to catch the last train home. His plain white t-shirt is clean except for the areas that were uncovered by his apron, and it sits loosely around his narrow torso. Margaro’s black pants are bleach-stained around the ankles and his socks are soaked down to his toes – pruning and further callousing his worn out feet. After speeding past three metro stops worth of city lights and tunnels, Margaro peels himself out of the last row of the last rail car that is on it’s last run of the night. The walk to his one bedroom apartment was a half mile, and was enjoyed with a cigarette, while reflecting on the tiring day that is now over, and of the family he loves which is so far away. His four children and wife live in Mexico, and the sacrifices he had made are hard to comprehend. He works six days a week ….. Six hard days that result in enough money to send back home to his wife and kids….Enough to offer them a life of luxury, a life he never knew.
Walking into his lonely, bare boned apartment, Margaro turns on the stereo that sits above the pawn shop television, and the same Mariachi music from the restaurant begins to simmers softly, increasing in volume until he is content. He pulls a Tecate from the refrigerator, cracks it open and walks out to the front porch, leaving the door cracked so that the music coming from the living room was perfectly audible. He drinks the first beer quickly, grabs one more and a handful of chicharrones he fried just before work. The evidence of fried pork still lingers subtly in the air.
***
While thinking about those nights of Margaro sitting on that porch, rocking back and forth, singing inaudibly to the music that takes him to his homeland, I can’t help but think about how much he truly misses his family, and the wonderfully unselfish life he has chosen to live – all for them. Most nights he would return from work too late to call home, since his wife and children had long since retired for the night – they were living their own lives, and would awake to their own obligations and responsibilities. After having lived four years in the United States, how much longer could he work these long hours away from his family? When would he move back to the ones he sacrificed everything for? Based on experience, I have a suspicion it could be another four years, and at that point his children would never recognize him, and a life without him would almost seem normal……
Margaro will finish off the better part of a six pack and ache his way into the bedroom, falling into bed – forgetting to mute the music that would play throughout the ill-furnished and modestly sized apartment into the morning hours. He will wake up in a few short hours and do it all again. Atleast he will wake to the music of Mexico, and there will be pictures of the ones he cares about on the table next to him. He will shower, dress, and grab some more chicharrones for the road. The restaurant was awaiting him with a pit full of dishes, half full trash cans, and a stereo sitting above his station ready to take him home……….. 

Posted in Blog | Leave a comment